Wiring, the least favorite part of anybodies racecar build.
But still very essential, and many people has lost their race with faulty wiring so it is important to do this right the first time.
Actually this is the second time but we won’t count the first time, that was still very much the stock BMW loom 😉
As you may have noticed we didn’t tape anything in…. for good reason.
If shit fails you can’t simply swap out a wire, nor can you pinpoint a broken wire with your multimeter.
We used some sore of Flexi corrugated pvc tube which comes with a cut over the lenght of the tube making it easy to add/remove wires (or slide over the bundle).
Obviously this is not professional Mil-spec racing loom with the wires twisted concentric etc. We have 10 wires (at most) running trough a tube.
And none of them are important sensor wires.
What you see here is for the rear light clusters, so foglight, indicators etc.
I will make a separate post about the engine loom.
Starting…. with a mini cooper from 1987
yes, in this mixup of parts is something english.
We used a starter relay from a 1987 Mini Cooper, it’s that weird item fixed to my right rear inner wheelarch.
This will only put power on the cable that goes to my startermotor when it needs to start the motor, sounds so simple but 99% of modern cars don’t have that… the cable to the startmotor is 100% of the time live when the engine runs, heck even the alternator joins at the starter motor.
We have the alternaterwire going back to the transmission tunnel (red 6mm2 double isolated wire) and not over the 35mm2 starter wire.
When the engine is running you can safely put an axle trough that cable and into the chassis… it won’t weld itself to the car and/or create fire.
There is no power on that cable 😉
This makes it safe in case of crash too… of if we did something wrong and it was rubbing on a sharp edge.
The 6mm2 alternater wire goes to the killswitch on the tunnel and back to the battery for charging.
Simple & Safe.